The Kimberley & Gibb River Road
The Kimberley region is known for its massive sandstone gorges and waterfalls.
There are essentially two roads through the Kimberley region - we took the more northern Gibb River Road. (A lot of people do a big loop trip along both roads, finishing at the same place they started from, but that obviously wasn't going to work for us.) The Gibb is a gravel road and has a reputation as being very rough, but I think it's more of a marketing problem - if it was a 'Track' instead of a 'Road', people wouldn't take their caravans and they would rave about how good the ‘Track’ was!
Near Kunnanurra we drove to a place called Secret Spring - it's not actually much of a secret (everyone knows about it) but there's a few water crossings along to way to keep the caravans away.
It was pretty nice when we got there. There were 3 pools - this was the bottom one.
Along the Gibb there were heaps of gorges and water holes to swim in.
Lots of freshwater crocs in the gorge at Windjana. (We didn't swim here - they probably wouldn't chase after you but there were so many there was a good chance of stepping on one!)
One of the creek crossings was approximately 80cm deep and the Landy's door seals are about as waterproof as I expected.
We had a couple of flats (the first since February). The first one was a small hole in the tube and was fixed with a patch and a bit of effort.
The second time the tube really blew properly. After about 700km on dirt roads we turned onto the bitumen and the tube made a loud "pop". (And no, it wasn't due to me doing a dodgy repair!)
At the end of the Gibb it was time to swap out the rear tyres - they've lasted about 30,000km (half on gravel roads) carrying over a tonne each, so have done ok. The front ones are only half worn and so stay where they are.
Broome & Surrounds
Just before Broome we stopped at Derby. (Pronounced Der-bee, unlike the English version which is Dar-bee.) The tides run at 10-11 meters and I've never before seen a wharf designed to support a road train!
On Cable Beach at Broome.
Just north of Broome camping by ourselves on the limestone rock platforms in the sand dunes.
Walking on the beach at sunset.
Further north near the top of the Dampier Peninsula - a weird combination of limestone, sandstone, chalk and other rocks.
Most of the coastline is beaches but there are also beautiful bays. This area is used by one of the main pearl farms.
We had to wait when the road was blocked by a bushfire. It was the wrong time of year for this area to be burning (too dry) and so the flames were pretty big.
South from Broome - the Pilbara
The Pilbara is known for its red hills, more gorges and iron ore mines.
We went on a mine tour at Tom Price. Everything is big - the holes, the equipment, the 3km-long trains that carry the dirt to the port 400km away.
I waved at the train driver but I later found out there isn't one - they're remote controlled from Perth!
In Port Headland where most of the red dirt is sent overseas for processing.
North-West Cape, Ningaloo Reef
On the surface, more beautiful coastline and long sandy beaches. This is also heaps of things to see (but not photograph) under the water - we saw turtles, sharks, manta rays, dugong, whales, dolphins and heaps of colourful fish.
We reached the furthest part of the Australian mainland from Sydney. The Tom Tom said 5068km / 54 hours, but we'll probably do closer to 10,000km.
Down the coast to Geraldton via Kalbari National Park
I found two museums that exhibited what I consider to be unwarranted discrimination. (Along with all the bottle shops in the NT and WA - apparently for my safety.)
Geraldton
We stayed in Geraldton for 3 weeks so I could do some school teaching work. I emailed six schools and only one called me, but was enough as they offered me work every day I was available (and would have happily kept me until the end of the year.) The idea was to get experience in a different environment to the upper-middle class school I work at in Sydney and that was certainly the case - very low socio-economic area with significant issues around achievement, attendance and lots of challenging behaviour. It was also very rewarding with lots of kids who are happy to be at school where they are treated with care and kindness.
While I was there a newly built area of the school playground (a Yarning Circle) was opened with the involvement of an elder from the Yamaji nation who conducted a smoking ceremony. There were also musical performances from the Year 6 didgeridoo group and a trio of Year 3 girls who sang From Little Things Big Things Grow.
I said I was happy to teach anything and I did, including a week teaching indigenous culture in a school with 60% indigenous population! I think I taught every class in the school including pre-school one afternoon, where I was treated to a lovely cup of pretend tea and muffin. It felt like the set of Land of the Giants and I was reminded of how unsuited I am to teaching this age-group.
Meanwhile we hired an adult tricycle for Adam and and he and Helen spent the days riding into town and visiting coffee shops, museums, the library and local beaches.
From here we're heading around the south coast of WA to Esperance, north through Kalgoorlie to Wiluna, and then east along the Gunbarrel Highway to Uluru and Alice Springs.
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